1000watt antec PSU

I just got one and when i tried to power system up it turns lights and fans on and off again. The motherboard test leds light up and turn off at the same time. I figure the psu is going into short out mode.

Is there some thing i missed. The pci 8 and 6 wire to graphics card. motherboard 20 pin , the 8 pin near the cpu. turn power on fans spin?

I seen a test where u bridge the green wire to ground should i have ago and see if it self powers not connected to system?

I got it at pc case gear so i cant just drop back in easy. wrong side off town,

reseat your cpu and ram and gfx card before you try anything else then try with only 1 stick of ram and 1 gfx card

but it sounds to me more like a dead mobo from what you have said not a PSU

ps!!!! do not bridge the wires all that will confirm is that the mobo is not powering up the PSU properly also make sure you have all the header pins eg. power HD reset ect plugged in the correct place and in correct polarity

the computer system is working ok with old psu. nothing damaged, that was my biggest fear. anyway i bridged the wire all checked all voltages across atx standards. and they were good, but thats not underload.

Anyway i pulled both sides off, lite the room up well and removed the old psu. had a good look at what i had to do and fitted it back in with great care. Same thing . A flick off power then off again.

I then tried to bridge the psu to turn on with a hdd attached. Didnt work at all.

So i took hdd off and it powers up like it should with fan spinning fast then slow.

Whats going on, must be the psu?

Do the bigger PSU's only work on some systems, did i miss a requirement ? atx standards i thought.

psu should work on any system within reason...

so your saying the system boots up and runs fine with the old PSu but not your new 1000W???

if thats the case then yer sounds like its the NEW PSU causing your dramas may i ask why you are changing PSUs? was there anything wrong with your old 1??

post up all your PC specs so i can have a look at what you have

Fullnutta wrote:

psu should work on any system within reason...

so your saying the system boots up and runs fine with the old PSu but not your new 1000W???

if thats the case then yer sounds like its the NEW PSU causing your dramas may i ask why you are changing PSUs? was there anything wrong with your old 1??

post up all your PC specs so i can have a look at what you have

You got it. I just wanted to make sure i was not missing something. Old PSU is 650watt with a gtx480 feeding off it. So i want to give it some head room as well as putting a second 480 in. The system should draw around 720watts when finished without overclock. I figured that a 1000w peak would be perfect for it. Running an average off 750w and peaking to 1000watt when the heats on.

At the moment the gtx480 asks for too much, i can hear the fan slow down when the card draws power. It just enough to run it only.

yer good idea to upgrade ive got 480s also and they suk harder than lls mum on heat lol

back to this tho have you got another PC to try the PSU in?? when you plug the 1000w PSU in try reseating the mobo plugs the 20-24pin and the 4-8pin like wriggle them around so the are contacting??

other than that mate its looking like there is an issue with that 1000w

if i can suggest a good PSU either THERMALTAKE TOUGHPOWER or CORSAIR

got an old pen 4. will place PSU on top off box and plug in , I will drag it out. they say they will charge me $25 buck if it works, i should bill them for about 4hrs off testing 1st. Not there fault just hate when i see this crap happen. I got to drive back there which is another 2hr round trip.

Well that a head fuk. The old pen 4 loved it. So im down to the pci-e cables . I didnt test them because i didnt know what to test for but looks like im off to learn what voltages are on them and where.

they should be 12v and 5v with respective earths you should have a couple of 8 pins and a cpuple of 6 pins???

Fullnutta wrote:

they should be 12v and 5v with respective earths you should have a couple of 8 pins and a cpuple of 6 pins???

there all 12v +, all the wires in the pci-e connections are 12v. U sure there are ment to be 5v in there too. this might be my problem.. I looked before on web and thought i read they were ment to be all 12v with negs to match. Im a terrible reader thou. There's 2 8 pin pci-e , were one gets the two grounds cut away to make the 6 pin. I even tried the sli port only last night which is the 2 dedicated coloured cables with there own ports. It's got to be the graphics card not getting power. that shutdown a computer straight away. always has.

I dont have another system with pci-e power ports to use for test , me mate got a 1200w when i got this one and he said i can test with his psu which is waiting to build a system in a month, but that proves not much for my supply

will try again tomorrow and see if it wants to play.

no it might not have a 5v wire in it but 12v and 5v are the only two voltages found in PSUs thats why i said that if they are all 12v thats ok

let me know how you go with it hope i can help you get it goin as i love the firmy cards esp. the 480s

my old p4 was a 20 pin main power lead but my newer pc has a 24pin main power lead. thats the only thing i can think of

yeah easy cranky. The extra pins get cut off bud. The extra wires on psu these days is to feed the 12v rail into motherboard and graphics card. They need the extra negatives then to stop burnout. My old pen4 shows why they changed it, the plug near the cpu for power has burnout out years ago. They suck ashit load off power these new systems. The plug near the cpu on motherboard can be a 4 or 8 pin. That lead comes out off psu, not modular. That will leave a spare lead hanging. The PSU these days are so good that if u hook it up wrong it will do no damage and shut off.

i have had the problem you are describing but it was power related to the main power plug not being seated properly

cranky wrote:

i have had the problem you are describing but it was power related to the main power plug not being seated properly

i wish. Any way i've read that a 20pin psu will work on a 24 pin motherboard, thing is once u try to load it up the system will shut down or burn out the plug socket.

I took it to the shop today and it worked ok. He said what u want to do. I said to keep it and load it up for awhile. Well i was there i heard them say , "if u load that antec up im out off here, they go bang in a big way when they go". Nice to know, wish i went another brand now.

i have a corsair which has a 20pin plug and a loose 4 pin plug that you also plug in when you use a 24pin motherboard. anyway i would get a refund and get something else.

Picked the prick off a thing up today and wacked it in thinking its going to work, the test boys have been all over it and ran real world tests on it but it still fails to power up. Im starting to think the i7 860 is the problem, scared off the overclocking it was going to cop. big scary psu wont turn on but small and lame psu 650w and it come out to play. WTF is going on.

Going to think about this for another week then im taking the case in to them to install . so much trouble trying to get this unit working in my system.

Me mate built his system today and it was shutting down straight away too. I let him put the heat sink on cpu and didnt watch him. A quickly worked out it was off and installed it again and system was perfect. Wish my troubles were so easy to fix.

ok now i remember.i found this on a site that was based on the same kind of problem, and whether you could use a 20 to 24 pin adaptor.

"Before anybody goes using a 20-pin to 24-pin adaptor and an older ATX power supply with a newer motherboard which requires a 24-pin connector it'd be best to sit back and reflect first on just what the system actually is. If the system is a rather basic home or office productivity system, with not a lot of components installed or peripherals connected to it, then you might get away with using such a configuration. The 20-pin to 24-pin adaptor provides an additional 12 volt supply to the motherboard by 'splitting' the 12 volt line. (In other words, the extra leads are there for a reason.)

But if the system is a high performance gaming system, or perhaps has lots of components installed, or a highly demanding graphics card installed, or maybe a number of USB devices regularly connected and drawing power from the motherboard, then the adaptor will NOT be a good idea. In such situations it would definitely be best to replace the old power supply unit with one which is more suitable.

Remember, wattage rating isn't enough in itself when it comes to power supply units. The unit needs to be able to deliver stable voltage levels, and adequate amounts of power to the places where it is needed. The 12 volt 'rail' being split in that older 20-pin unit may not carry enough power to cope with the increased load placed upon it."

so i think your motherboard requires the 24 pin power supply to supply the voltage required

24-Pin Main Power

This is the most notable change for the ATX12V standard. PCI Express requires a 75 watt power requirement that was not capable with the older 20-pin connector. To handle this, 4 additional pins were added to the connector to supply the addition power through 12V rails. Now the pin layout is keyed such that the 24-pin power connector can actually be used on older ATX motherboards with the 20-pin connector. The caveat is that the 4 extra pins will reside off to the side of the power connector on the motherboard so be sure there is enough clearance for the extra pins to use on such a board.


Does the older PSU deliver more amps on its 12V rail than a single rail in the 1000W PSU?

I would not thinks so. The duty cycle is higher then older psu. 28amps on 12v rails with 1200w. 1000watt 25 amps 3volt rail is 30amp. The newer PSU can handle more max currents drain then the older. Duty cycle has alot to do with a good supply. If u plan on your system drawing 750watts then add another 250 for a good average, when ur system goes flat out drawing the most it can the extra 250 will make sure ur voltages dont dip. There are average power then peak. Same as speakers with RMS and peak. or max power.

STAY AWAY FROM ANTEC POWER SUPPLYS. Been told after all i went through that the company must be having trouble with some motherboards , like what happened years ago so they say. Thats great to find out after i buy 1. Off to sell it to someone who's system it works with @ a lower price then i paid. What a joke. I didnt think stuff like this happened these days.

I hope with a new PSU everything works out and for the rest of us....

STAY THE F$&K AWAY FROM ANTEC !

Yeah for fuk sake dont go near em, dont let anyone buy em. It's all hits and miss with them. Spend an extra $30 on another brand.

I thought i might try email them in usa and see what they say. I suggest everyone stay away too. They think everyone is dumb, and there never get failures.

The local Australian rep wont answer emails and the shop has stopped at that. I dont care about the money i spent, Im on principle's about the way i have been treated buy the shop and the maunfacture. fuk em all